Are you looking for a good meal in Ghana? Well guess what? I love food. I’ll share with you some of my favorite places to eat just in case you find yourself hungry in West Africa. Consider this the Peace Corps Guide to Satisfying Most of Your Food Whims in Ghana.
The capital of Ghana. Accra is located on the coast, therefore fish tastes normal. The food is pricey (on a volunteer salary), but definitely worth it! You can get very authentic Indian food, cheesy pizza, salads, and of course – frog legs.
Price guide (does not include drinks, which in general in Accra is expensive – smuggle in a water satchet):
$ – between 0.50cd and 5cd; $$ – between 5cd and 15cd; $$$ – between 15cd and 30cd; $$$$ – more than 30cd
$$$ Located in Osu, near Epos. Follow the street behind Citizen Kofi until you see the signs for Mamma Mia, turn obviously at the signs. The restaurant is located behind a tall wooden fence. The hours are pretty weird, so expect to only go for dinner during the week. I think it is closed on Mondays.
Mamma Mia is the place to go if you want an expensive, cheesy, brick oven pizza. The pizzas are pretty delicious and good sized. My personal favorite is the four cheese, but substituting mushrooms for whatever the other random thing is on it. The place gets really crowded at night, especially on the weekends.
$$ Located in Labone, near Metro TV. Hours are from around 7:30am – 8pm? I’m just guessing, but it seems like that’s when they are open. They do deliver, but honestly it is more of a hassle than just going to get it.
The pizza at Melting Moments is currently 14cd and oh so worth it. The pizza selections are different and smothered in cheese. The crust is sweet, like most bread in this country, but still tasty. The sauce isn’t my favorite, but let’s be honest it is cheap, cheesy pizza that you can afford on a volunteer salary, therefore it is heavenly. If you want pizza, try Melting Moments.
$$$ Located in on the main road in Osu, 37, and the Accra Mall. Hours are lunchtime until about 8pm. Tuesdays are 2 for 1 pizza days.
Pizza Inn tastes like glorified cardboard. I’ve been told 37 is better than Osu location, but for the price, size, and overall quality, you are better served going to Mamma Mia or Melting Moments. Basically it tastes like bad airport pizza.
$$$ Located in Osu, closer to Danquah circle across from the Police Headquarters. It is on the left side of the road as if you were walking toward Circle. I’m not sure about hours, but it is a bar – so expect dinner here.
I’ve never actually tried the burgers here, but I’ve been told they are good. So there you go, a pricey place in Osu to get a cheeseburger.
$$-$$$ Located in a dark street back deep in Osu, it is best to grab a taxi here since it is kinda hard to find. Most taxi drivers know Ryan’s. Or at least they claim to.
Also never had a cheeseburger here, but it is an awesome Irish pub with a happy hour. Enough said.
$$$-$$$$ Located at the Accra Mall. Hours are lunch and dinner, because seriously who is eating a cheeseburger for breakfast in Ghana?
Also never been here, but I’ve been told if you want a cheeeeeseburger (say it with a funny french accent), you need to go to Rhapsody’s. Rhapsody’s is a South African chain, which translates to – it is awesome. Burgers are around 20cd, but very filling. Good place to take a date, unless you are cheap.
$$$ Located in Osu on the right hand side of the main drag. Next to the Piccadilly Casino. Open around 11 – 9pm
Expensive Chinese food and smaller portions. The food is pretty good though and the selection is gigantic. Try some of the appetizers, they are pretty tasty. Also you can get lots of fried food here, which basically reminds me of home.
This one authentic place with a crazy name
$$$ Located near Container, on the left hand side of the street going towards Duplex. Really close to Container. Open for dinner (not sure about lunch)
There is a back room with a giant spinning table, which is a fantastic place to go when you are tipsy. The food is apparently really authentic according to a RPCV who used to live in China. Don’t expect to really know what you are ordering but the dumplings are killer!
Fried Noodle Place
$$ Located near Epos in the big screen hut. Open for dinner.
I can’t eat anything at this place, stupid allergies, but I’ve only heard good things. Fried noodles near a popular drinking spot. Seriously, what else do you need? Well there is the shwarma place there too, so if you need a shwarma, you can get that to eat with your noodles and beer tower.
Little India Sunshine Salad
$$$ Located in Osu, off the street right past the Total station. Across from Acrilex and near Auntie Esther’s. Open for lunch and dinner.
Prices here just skyrocketed, but the food is great. Huge selection of salads, sandwiches, wraps, and great appetizers. They have daily specials too, which are based on seasonal deliciousness. Portions are good sized. I love to get the wraps, which are around 19cd. The wraps are about a foot long, stuffed with yumminess, and come with a side salad and fries. Easy meal to share. My personal favorite is the chicken and hummus wrap. Because hummmmmus!
$$ Located in Osu at the end of the street behind Citizen Kofi, near Piccadilly Casino. Also in the Accra Mall. Lunch and dinner hours.
You can get chicken burgers, chicken pieces, and my favorite their chicken salad (but not chicken salad, just salad with chicken on it). The dressing is really good, the veggies are pilled high, good amount of grilled, pulled chicken, and olives! The salad is about 6cd, which is a real steal in Accra. It is a good way to appease the doctor’s orders to eat more things that have nutritional value. I highly recommend their salad if you are looking for a good, cheap meal prior to catching a movie at the Mall.
$$$ Located in Labone. Turn at the street right before Melting Moments and follow the street until you come to a little side street on your left. Look for the signs on the main street. Very easy to get to in Labone. Open after 5pm for dinner.
If you love Indian food, you will love Tandoori. They just updated their menu, which means higher prices, but this is another great place to share food. Try the lamb kormaa with garlic tandoor. If the menu says very spicy, they mean it, even by Ghana standards. The meals come with three different sauces, the mint one is great for adding flavor and toning down the spice. Rice doesn’t come with the sauces, you have to order it separately. Bring a friend or three and order two or three sauces, some rice, and two tandoors or naan. You will all leave happy and you get to split the bill! One of my favorite places to eat in Accra!
Banku and tilapia
$$-$$$ Located right next to Duncans, which is past Frankies on a side street. They come out around 6pm until late.
If you want an authentic Ghanaian dish, which is loved by locals, you need to eat here. The banku is 1cd per ball, which is expensive and it isn’t the best actual banku (trust me I’m an expert). It is too smoky, but you aren’t coming here for the banku. You are coming for the whole package. You order your ginger crusted and stuffed grilled tilapia by the size. A smaller fish is still going to put you back about 12-15cd. Then you can decide if you want grilled veggies, which you do. When it finally comes out, it takes a while, you will be hungry and happy. Dip the banku in the peppe, get some grilled veggies, and pull out a piece of that succulent fish. You’ll be in heaven. Hands down my favorite place to go in Accra. If you are looking to save money split the fish, but be warned sharing is at your own risk.
$ Located near the Prison Headquarters before you get to Danquah Circle, look for the tents behind the wall on the left hand side. The ladies come out once the sun goes down.
You can get rice, banku, fufu, fried yams, and fruit here. Overall good food, if you are used to eating chop. Try the rice from the lady at the end. Average meal will cost about 3cd.
Samosas & Spring Rolls
$ Located across from Metro TV at the end of the chop area. The lady appears after 12pm, but your best best is to come after 12:30.
Delicious spring rolls and samosas are to be found here, and for cheap! You can get 3 spring rolls, some fried yams, and 3 samosas for under 5cd. If you miss fried food, take a trip here.
Maquis Tante Marie
$$$ Located at the Accra Mall and near the Peace Corps Office. Open for lunch and dinner.
I’ve never been here, again, but I have passed it many a time. I’ve been told that they have a big selection of typical Ghanaian meals at an expensive price. I’ve heard their palmnut soup is good though. Probably a good place to take family or friends visiting who want a restaurant version of Ghana.
Okay, so I’m just going to put a short blurb here about this. I haven’t forked over the cash for this yet, but two of the nice hotels The Movenpick and Golden Tulip offer buffets. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. They also have buffets during special holidays. If you want a crapton of amazingly delicious food for a ridiculously expensive price, then go to the buffet. On a Volunteer budget the 30-60cd+ buffet is difficult to rationalize, but if you can get someone else to pay for it – DO IT.
Elsewhere in Ghana
Located in the Eastern region of Ghana, you can get to Kof in about 2-4 hours from Accra. Kof is worth a visit for its Thursday bead market, which is a great way to spend a little money on a lot of jewelry. Bracelets are about 1cd and you can easily get a necklace for 2-10cd. Earrings average around 1.50-3cd. Sorry got distracted by jewelry, back to the food.
On the main street in Kof near Melcoms and down an alleyway, you will find a two story chop bar that is fabulous. The building is white and the stairs are on the front side of the building. If you are looking for the place, you really need to just check all the side streets/alleys between Melcoms and the traffic light near the big painted building/market. There is a street meat guy next to the chop bar. Go upstairs and prepare yourself.
The food is cheap even for chop standards, you can get a ball of banku for under .50cd. I highly recommend getting banku and peppe. The peppe is green and tastes remarkably like salsa verde. Get a couple hard boiled eggs and you can eat very well for under 2cd.
You go to Kumasi to get everywhere else. Kumasi is the best place on Earth to test your will, patience, and ability to dodge fast moving people with large objects on their heads. Walking through town is like playing a giant game of frogger.
$ Located near the main post office, Vodafone café, and across from Opoku market. Look for the small chop looking place with a door, should be yellowish outside.
Here you can get brown rice with veggies, salad, and tofu. The brown rice is a welcome departure from the mounds of white rice you eat as a volunteer. The portions are generous. Even if you aren’t a vegetarian, the change of pace is welcome. I highly recommend trying this place.
$-$$ Located in Odum, it is a brown hotel near the main circle.
Some days you can order burgers and spring rolls, but you should probably call ahead first (obviously I don’t have the number, but someone does) to check if they have what you want that day. You can get a burger for 5cd and spring rolls are 1cd each. The burger comes with a fried egg and basically coleslaw on top. The bun is thick and wheat-like. The spring rolls are curry based and huge. This place is a real treat if you are in need of some food R&R.
Located in the Brong-Ahafo region, Wenchi is a larger town with not a lot to see. You come to Wenchi to see a PCV, change cars, or see the former dead President Busia. What Wenchi lacks in attractions, it makes up for in food. Chop paradise!
$ Located on the street right before Allied Oil and right after the National Fire Service. Open from 10am – sunset
If you want to try the best fufu and banku in Ghana, you need to make a trip to Kaaf. The banku is the perfect blend of sour and flavor. The groundnut soup, while watered down, is spicy, rich, and oh so tasty. The light soup has a nice taste to it, and they just started making palmnut soup. The palmnut soup is good, but doesn’t hold a candle to mine – clearly. You can get a lot of food for less than 3cd here. The chicken is extremely tasty and the portions are favorable. You can even get the food to go! Anytime someone comes to Wenchi, I take them to Kaaf.
$ Located right next to the main station, it is a two story yellow and black spot. Food is available after noon.
In the mood for jollof, fried rice, or plain rice? Well Managye doesn’t disappoint. If you are changing cars in Wenchi, stop at Managye for lunch. You can hang out upstairs and feel like you have been transported to a seedy, but not scary part of Miami. The chicken is fried to deliciousness and the rice is plentiful. Try the jollof with the stew. The salad is also nice. Regular portion is 3cd.
Queen’s Star Waakye
$ Located across from Ghana Commercial near the main station. Look for the blue stand behind the taxis.
Excellent waakye and loved by all people in Wenchi. This place is eternally popular and their waakye sells out before 11 everyday. The stew that accompanies the waakye is flavorful and really adds to the waakye. During avocado season, there is often a lady selling cut avocado outside the stand. Mix the avocado in with your rice and beans for a protein and omega three paradise.
$$ Located far from the center of town, look for the signs directing you towards the hotel. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
In need of some french fries? How about a sorta burger? What about some stroganoff? Viglosam has delicious pricey meals for the person who is looking for a foodescape. You can order just a plate of fries and salad for 5cd. Their banku and groundnut soup is very rich and thick and is highly recommended. The pepper steak is like salisbury steak and is a great choice.
Look for part two of my Foodie Guide to Ghana coming soon! Which will basically just be me updating this page and providing a new link.
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